A thorough pre-purchase inspection is your last line of defence before committing to a vehicle. Problems found after you've signed and driven away are your problem — and your cost. This checklist applies to both private sales and dealer purchases.
Before you visit: PPSR check
Run a PPSR (Personal Property Securities Register) check online before you inspect the car in person. It costs $2 and reveals whether the vehicle:
- Has existing finance owing (the lender holds a security interest — you could buy the car and inherit the debt or the lender could repossess it).
- Has been reported stolen.
- Is a statutory write-off (total loss) or repairable write-off (damaged but repaired — legal to sell, but disclose-worthy).
- Has the VIN recorded consistently with the vehicle's compliance plate.
If the PPSR shows finance owing on a private sale, insist the vendor pays it out using your purchase funds at settlement, or walk away.
Exterior inspection
- Panel gaps — crouch down at each corner and look along the body. Inconsistent gaps between doors, bonnet, and boot suggest structural repair after a collision.
- Paint — look for colour variation in direct sunlight, overspray on rubber seals or in the engine bay, and texture differences (orange peel) that indicate a repaint. Different sheen levels on adjacent panels are a tell.
- Rust — check the wheel arches, sills, lower doors, and boot floor. Surface rust is cosmetic; bubbling paint and flaking metal are structural concerns and very expensive to fix properly.
- Glass — chips and cracks in the windscreen are common negotiating points. Small chips near the driver's line of sight are a fail on many state roadworthy inspections.
- Tyres — check tread depth (minimum legal limit: 1.5mm across the full width), uneven wear patterns (indicates wheel alignment or suspension issues), and the age code moulded into the sidewall (four-digit code: WWYY). Tyres over 6–8 years should be replaced regardless of tread.
Interior inspection
- Wear consistency — seat bolster wear, steering wheel shine, and pedal rubber wear should all be consistent with the odometer reading. A 50,000 km car with a worn-through driver's seat is suspicious.
- Electronics — test every button, switch, and screen. Air conditioning (heating and cooling), windows, mirrors, central locking, and all infotainment functions. Diagnosis and repair of modern automotive electronics is expensive.
- Odours — musty or mouldy smell indicates water ingress (roof, sunroof drain, door seal, or heater core leak). Smoke smell is extremely difficult to remove and will affect resale value significantly.
- Boot and spare — lift the boot carpet and inspect for rust or water pooling around the spare tyre well. Check that the spare is inflated and usable.
Mechanical inspection
- Cold start — arrange the inspection for first thing in the morning so the engine is cold. A warm engine masks many issues. Listen for knocking, tapping, or rattling on startup that clears as the engine warms — these are often early signs of wear.
- Smoke — blue smoke on startup indicates oil burning (worn valve seals or piston rings); white smoke that doesn't clear indicates coolant in the combustion chamber (head gasket); black smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture or injector problem.
- Fluids — check the oil dipstick (colour, level, and any milky residue indicating water contamination), coolant reservoir, brake fluid, and power steering fluid (if applicable). Dark, gritty brake fluid indicates it hasn't been serviced in years.
- Service history — a complete dealer logbook is the gold standard. Stamps at the correct intervals give confidence in maintenance discipline. Missing stamps or long gaps between services are red flags, especially for timing chain/belt vehicles.
- Test drive — drive on a mix of road types. Listen for suspension clunks over bumps, brake vibration or pulling when stopping, automatic transmission hesitation or harsh shifting, and tyre noise (a whirring that changes with speed indicates a worn wheel bearing).
Recall and warranty check
- Check the ACCC Product Recalls database for outstanding recalls on the vehicle's make/model/year. Outstanding safety recalls must be fixed by the manufacturer at no cost.
- New car warranty typically transfers to private buyers (check the manufacturer's terms). Some extended warranties are not transferable.
- Dealer vehicles sold as used in Australia carry Australian Consumer Law guarantees — for major failures, you may be entitled to a repair, replacement, or refund regardless of warranty.
Negotiating after inspection
Document every issue with photos during the inspection. Use the PPSR result, any mechanical findings, tyre age, and needed maintenance as negotiating levers:
- A full set of tyres at $800–$1,200 retail is a reasonable deduction to request.
- An upcoming service is typically $200–$400 that the seller should either complete or discount from the price.
- A professional inspection (NRMA, RACQ, RAA, RAC, RACT — depending on your state) costs $150–$350 and provides an independent report that gives you both leverage and peace of mind. Strongly recommended for vehicles over $15,000 or 100,000 km.
Once you've confirmed the vehicle is sound, use the Motorate calculator to model the finance before you commit to a purchase price.